Thursday, May 1, 2008

Confit de canard - days 3 and 4

Thirty six hours. That's how long I let my duck cure. It was haaaard. So very very hard to sit at my computer for an entire day knowing that there was poultry in my fridge waiting to be boiled in oil... Bwaahhahh (mad scientist laugh). Well not so much boiled as gently simmered for many many hours.

The morning of day three dawned to revel a serious fat deficiency. My duck rendering had only yielded about 3/4 of a cup of fat and I knew, from the recipe, that it would not be enough... I have no idea were MR (that's Michael Rulhman for those of you not up on otks abbreviations) gets enough fat from one duck to confit 2 legs. I guess if I had had 3 ducks, yielding  6 legs, (the quantity of legs in the recipe) there would have been enough fat to render the required 2-4 cups. As it stands I had to go to the store to buy this...
Duck_Confit023

I could have used vegetable shortening but it wouldn't have provided any additional flavor.
Once I had procured enough fat to actually cover the duck in a vessel of appropriate size, I had to give the duck a bath. At this point in the process the duck was still covered in salt, spices, and garlic.
Duck_Confit011

A quick rinse under cold water washed away the residual salt and spices. I am fully aware of the science behind curing meat but seeing the results first hand is damn cool.
The meat was firm to the touch and the parts that had been directly exposed to the cure had taken on a deeper color. I don't know if pink salt would have added anything to this but MR swears by it for curing. However, it was not part of this recipe.Duck_Confit012

Now all squeaky clean, the bird is ready for a pot. I used my 6 qt enabled dutch oven.

Let me rant for a moment - If you cook a lot, especially French, then you probably know about Le Creuset. Le Creuset makes very nice cookware but it is very pricey, as you might imagine imported heavy French metal cookware might be, but it is not the end all, be all of cast iron cookware. Lodge makes some great and relatively cost effective cast iron cookware. Little comparison: Lodge 6 qt Enamel Dutch Oven $61.95, $12 bucks cheaper at Wally World versus Le Creuset Enameled Cast-Iron 7-1/4-Quart Round French Oven with 33% Amazon discount is $235.99. DAMN! The 6 - 7/25 qt was the closest comparison possible. Even the premium Lodge Enamel cookware is much less expensive. </rant> That's a little html joke for the geeks.

So into my cost conscious dutch oven goes a single layer of duck parts with the 3/4 cups duck fat that I was able to render and enough pork fat (lard carries a sorta bad connotation but that's what it is) to cover the parts.
Duck_Confit017

As you might be able to tell I used a large disher to portion out the lard. This one is a # 12 it holds 100 ml of water or a little less than a 3rd of a cup.
Duck_Confit015

Looks like a big bucket of ice cream doesn't it?

I melted the fat over low heat on the stove top until it was all liquid. I then placed my grill press on it to make sure it was completely submerged and would remain that way for the entire cooking time.
Duck_Confit018

Pop that bad boy into a 180-200 degree oven for the rest of the day. Six to ten hours per the recipe. "Until the fat is clear". It looked pretty clear to me.
Duck_Confit020

I let this cool for an hour or so before transferring it to an ancient but serviceable Tupperware bowl for storage.
Duck_Confit021

Over night in the fridge puts us at day 4. The fat solidified, hiding the ducky goodness in a fluffy white wheel of fat.
Duck_Confit022

MR says to letting it age or ripen for a week or more will improve the flavor and texture.
Now I gotta confess; I had a little nibble right out of the oven, and I find it hard to believe that you could improve on the meth/crack/heron like addictiveness of duck confit but I will trust that MR knows what he is talking about and leave it until... Oh this will kill you, until after the 10th. I will be on vacation all next week and the confit will have plenty of time to "ripen".

I am taking applications for a recipe Guinea Pig.
I would share the confit with my mom for Mothers Day but that would be unfair to the rest of the clan cause there wouldn't be enough for everyone so best to find a friend or 3 willing to tuck in with me. (hint hint Claudia)

I will detail a final prep post once it has been finished, so until then...

Cheers

Chris

8 comments:

ntsc said...

Hudson Valley Foie Gras, which MR has a link too and I may, sells duck fat. However the shipping is very dear.

Refrigerated lard, try a butcher shop, is better than what you picture, although I've a couple of pounds in the pantry too.

The difference between LC and Lodge, besides the fact that LC comes in many colors to the truly insane can collect each piece in multiple colors, is that LC is enameld so you can use it with acidic foods that you can't do in cast iron.

Also you may be able to find Coppco enameled cast ironn on e-bay. They stopped making it at some point in the 80s, but I think it was better.

Chris said...

I looked into Hudson Valley. You are dead on on the shipping.

If only there was a real butcher shop in this town... >sigh<

The Lodge that I am referencing is enameled. Lodge has two "grades" of enameled gear. The Lodge Color which is what I have is fully covered. I imagine it is not as durable as their Lodge Enamel but it gets the job done. It does weigh just as much as a similar LC "French Oven", I have hefted both.

ceeelcee said...

I refuse to read a recipe for Guinea Pig confit.

Oh wait...that's not what you said.

Good to meet you last night at Iron Fork!

cook eat FRET said...

duck fat is also available from d'artagnan and grimaud. i just bite the bullet and do it. like i did with veal bones that are in my refrigerator...

i'm in on the confit but the lard has me freaked out... ever so slightly...

your blog has come a long way in a short time. i'm loving it!

ntsc said...

You are right on the Lodge, I just had never seen it before. I've a fair bit of the regular, but the catalog I've got didn't show the enamel.

We've a big set of the Coppco but don't use anything but the dutch ovens and it is just too heavy.

Chris said...

ceeelcee - I would never confit a Guinea Pig... You grill Guinea Pig.
It was great meeting you too. I guess I have to get in on this twitter thing huh.

fret - I was a little wigged out by the lard too but it's what MR recommends if you don't have enough duck fat. The lard actually taste like duck now so no pig over tones. When I get back from holiday I will shoot you an email about consuming the duck some evening. :)

ntsc - I might be a little more in touch with Lodge due to proximity. I am just over 100 miles from Lodge 's home city. I see it every time I head out to see my brother in Chattanooga.
I am unfamiliar Coppco cookware...

Peter said...

I was going to make one for Xmas. I have about half the duck fat I need. I did one last year with supermarket lard, and the smell was rather unpleasant. Was that because it was just a cheap lard? Does shortening work?

Chris said...

Peter,
I think you might have been the victim of rancid fat...
The lard I used was basically odorless. The duck fat that I did have scented the entire kitchen... Lovely...
I don't see why shortening wouldn't work but something there just doesn't sit right with me... Not sure why... Might be because vegetable fats tend to break down quicker than animals fats and you want to age the confit in the fat for a while to mature the flavor.

If you don't mind paying a premium for shipping, Hudson Valley Foie has a 2lbs tub of duck fat for 12 bucks.... Shipping will triple or more that price.
Best of luck with your duck.
Would love to know how it turns out.
Chris